Putting in IKEA Cupboards In An Workplace/Studio – The Course of From Begin To End
8 min read
It has been a really lengthy and seemingly countless course of, however yesterday I lastly put the ending touches on the IKEA cupboards that I used on the mural wall. They’re now fully put in and completed, and as quickly as I get the outlet state of affairs completed up, I’ll be prepared to begin organizing issues in my cupboards and drawers. For the reason that posts about this undertaking have been unfold out over a protracted time period, and I didn’t really end the ultimate step (the filler strips) till yesterday, I needed to place the entire details about putting in IKEA cupboards in my studio in a single publish to indicate the whole course of from begin to end.
However first, right here’s a glimpse of the completed cupboards, full with the completed toekick and the filler strips between the cupboards and the facet partitions.
So let me begin from the very starting and provides a walkthrough of the whole course of that I used, from begin to end, to put in these IKEA Sektion cupboards on the lengthy mural wall of my studio.
1. Connect the hanging rail to the wall.
I didn’t really use IKEA’s hanging rails as a result of I forgot to organize them, and the transport prices on these alone would have been ridiculously costly. (I don’t dwell near an IKEA.) So as an alternative, I simply used 1″ x 4″ lumber throughout the whole width of the wall screwed into studs.
I additionally put a narrower strip about 5 inches from the ground to behave as a spacer for the underside of the cupboards to carry them off of the wall on the similar distance.
2. Set up the ft on the cupboards (IKEA Sektion ft various)
I additionally didn’t buy IKEA’s ft for the Sektion cupboards as a result of they have been too tall for my functions. I wanted my cupboards to be not more than 33″ excessive, which signifies that my ft could possibly be not more than 3″ excessive. The minimal top for IKEA’s adjustable Sektion legs is 3.5″.
So I used some cheap lumber, ran it by my desk noticed to chop it down to three″ broad, after which minimize items that have been about 4″ lengthy. I glued and nailed 4 items collectively to make every foot, as proven under.
After which I hooked up them to the underside of the cupboards utilizing sizzling glue. I’ll repeat this once more. No woodworker must be utilizing a tiny craft retailer sizzling glue gun. Go to Dwelling Depot or one other huge residence enchancment retailer, go to the software part, and purchase your self an enormous sizzling glue gun that may put out a complete lot of glue with every squeeze of the set off.
3. Connect the cupboards to the rails.
You’ll have to you should definitely fastidiously learn the directions (correction: fastidiously take a look at the drawings within the wordless instruction pamphlets) that include the IKEA Sektion cupboards as a result of the best way through which you put in the mounting brackets onto your cupboards is decided by whether or not or not you’re utilizing IKEA’s hanging rails. In case you are, the brackets are hooked up utilizing one set of holes. Should you’re not (I didn’t), then the brackets are hooked up utilizing one other set of holes.
Since I wasn’t utilizing IKEA’s hanging rails, I hooked up my brackets appropriately in order that they’d screw proper into the mounting board I had hooked up to the wall. I measured fastidiously and positioned every cupboard the place I needed it, after which screwed a mounting screw by the massive gap within the bracket and into the board.
After which I hung this little bracket (these include the IKEA Sektion {hardware}) over every screw, however I didn’t tighten them fully at this level. I needed the cupboards to nonetheless be capable to transfer slightly bit.
Right here’s what the cupboard seemed like from the facet view at this level…
4. Screw the cupboards to one another.
With the cupboards positioned within the right order alongside the wall, and secured loosely to the board that was screwed into the studs, I used to be able to screw the cupboards to one another.
This took a while to get it excellent, and required a minimal of three clamps to carry the cupboards collectively as I used to be screwing them collectively. The cupboards don’t include these screw holes pre-drilled, and the directions don’t say to pre-drill the holes, however I did pre-drill as a result of it’s simpler and there’s much less of an opportunity that you just’ll crack the melamine for those who pre-drill the holes. The screws which are used to screw the cupboards collectively include the cupboards.
5. Tighten the cupboards to the mounting strip
As soon as the entire cupboards have been in place and screwed to one another, I went again and tightened these screws holding the cupboards to the mounting strip on the wall. I used my degree with every one to ensure I wasn’t getting the cupboards out of degree whereas tightening the screws.
Right here’s what it seemed like at this level with the entire cupboards screwed to one another and tightened to the wall.
6. Set up the toe kick
I had initially not deliberate to do a toe kick. I had deliberate to trim out the underside of the cupboards and not using a toe kick such as you would with a built-in bookcase. However later, I made a decision to do a toe kick as an alternative, which meant that I wanted to maneuver the ft again a couple of inches.
I might have averted this problem had I deliberate a toe kick from the start and positioned the ft the suitable distance from the entrance of the cupboard packing containers. Nevertheless it wasn’t that huge of a deal, and it wasn’t something a couple of whacks with a hammer couldn’t repair.
I used the hammer to loosen the recent glue, then moved the ft again the place I needed them for a toe kick, and re-glued them.
After which the toe kick simply hooked up proper to the entrance of these block ft. IKEA sells toe kick strips to match all of their cupboards, however since I painted my cupboards a customized colour, I simply used leftover lumber for my toe kicks. I needed to rip the boards on my desk noticed to get the suitable 3-inch top, but it surely labored simply positive. I painted them to match the cupboards first, after which nailed them into place.
7. Add filler strips between cupboards and wall.
The final step was to fill within the areas between the cupboards and the facet partitions. I used 2″ x 2″ lumber (which is actually 1.5″ x 1.5″) for this. The cupboard packing containers are 30″ excessive, so I minimize a 2″ x 2″ to about 28 inches in size, after which I used my sizzling glue gun to attach this to the facet of the cupboard with the entrance flush with the entrance fringe of the cupboard field. As soon as the glue dries, you may comply with up with screws in the identical means that the cupboards have been screwed collectively. I opted to only use the glue, although.
As soon as the glue was fully dry, I put the door on and measured the house between the sting of the door and the wall. I used my desk noticed to chop a chunk of lumber to suit the width of that house (minus about 3/16″), after which used my miter noticed to chop the size to 30″ (the identical top because the door). I hooked up this to the wooden spacer piece behind it utilizing 16-gauge 1.5″ nails.
Once more, IKEA sells filler strips that match all of their cupboards, however since my cupboards are painted a customized colour, I simply used scraps of lumber that I had readily available.
Word: I used IKEA’s Veddinge cupboard doorways and drawer fronts, that are 5/8″ thick. To ensure that my spacer strip to be the identical, I ran this board (customary 1″ lumber, which after all, is simply 3/4″ thick in actuality) by my planer to shave off that further 1/8″ of thickness in order that it could match the thickness of the Veddinge doorways. Should you don’t have entry to a planer, and your doorways are additionally 5/8″ thick (relying on the model you select), you may wish to transfer the primary spacer strip again about 1/8″ in order that the entrance completed spacer board received’t look thicker than the doorways. Or you may keep away from that problem by utilizing IKEA’s matching filler strips.
And eventually, I caulked the little house between that filler strip and the wall, wooden stuffed and sanded the nail holes, after which primed, painted, and clear coated the spacer to match the cupboards.
After which I repeat that complete course of on the opposite finish of the cupboards. And with that, the cupboards have been fully put in and completed.
This was a reasonably simple and simple course of since this was a financial institution of cupboards that stretched from one facet wall to a different.
It’s a way more difficult course of when you’ve gotten a complete facet of the cupboards fully uncovered, and you need to end off the whole facet to look completed. That’s the state of affairs I’ll be coping with on the opposite part of cupboards, so I’ll share that course of quickly.
Word: This publish was only a recap of the set up course of. However if you need extra details about how I trimmed, painted, and accented my IKEA Sektion cupboards with the Veddinge doorways and drawer fronts, or how I constructed my 20-foot-long countertop, you may examine these initiatives by clicking the titles under:
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I rework and enhance the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You’ll be able to be taught extra about me right here.
